Services
Painting
Paint is the finish everyone sees, but its quality is settled long before the last coat goes on. We prepare each surface for what it actually is — lime plaster, new skim, century-old joinery, weathered stucco — and choose a coating to suit it. The aim is a finish that looks as though it belongs to the house.
What painting covers
In a London house, painting is rarely a matter of walls alone. A project may take in ceilings and cornices, skirtings and architraves, panelled doors and sash windows, and outside, stucco, render, timber joinery and iron railings. Each surface needs its own preparation and coating system, and each fails in its own way if either is wrong.
- Interior painting: whole rooms, in the right order.
- Exterior painting: facades, joinery and metalwork, planned around the weather.
- Walls and ceilings: cracks, lining paper, cornices and ceiling roses.
- Woodwork, doors and windows: the joinery that is handled most.
- Period properties: lime plaster, old paint and historic fabric.
How we approach the work
- Preparation. Most paint failures start underneath: flaking over powdery distemper, peeling over unkeyed gloss, blistering over damp timber. We test and prepare until each surface is sound and clean.
- Protection. Floors, furniture, fitted joinery and ironmongery are covered or masked before work starts, and the protection is checked every day.
- Craftsmanship. Brushwork is still the core skill: a clean line beneath a cornice, a door laid off along the grain, edges kept free of build-up.
- Precision. Straight junctions between colours, an even sheen across each wall, and no paint on hinges, cords or glass beyond the narrow seal a window needs.
- Finish. We judge each room in its own light, from where you will actually stand in it.
How a project runs
- Survey. We look closely at every surface with you, checking for moisture, loose plaster, failing coatings and old paint that may contain lead.
- Specification. A written schedule sets out, room by room, the preparation, the type of coating, the number of coats, the colour and the sheen.
- Protection. Floors are covered to suit their surface, furniture is moved and sheeted, and stone, joinery and ironmongery are masked. Artworks and fragile pieces should be moved beforehand.
- Dust control. Sanding is done with extraction, behind dust screens where the work calls for it.
- Sequencing. Preparation first, then ceilings, walls and woodwork, working downwards so nothing falls onto a finished surface.
- Daily tidy. Each evening tools are cleaned, floors vacuumed and protection checked, and the rooms you need are left usable.
- Snagging. We walk each room with you in daylight and under its evening lighting, and put right anything that falls short.
- Handover. You receive a record of the colours, products and sheens in each room, with labelled leftover paint for touch-ups.
Choosing paints and sheens
We choose coatings for what the surface needs and how the room is used. Vapour-permeable paints suit lime plaster and older masonry; harder-wearing finishes belong where hands and shoulders meet the wall; water-based trim paints avoid the yellowing of oil-based whites, while oil-based systems still earn their place where flow and levelling matter. Where several manufacturers make a suitable product, we discuss the options with you and follow the data sheet for preparation, conditions and recoat times.
Sheen is part of the design. Flat matt reads softly and forgives old plaster; eggshell gives woodwork a gentle, practical sheen; gloss is traditional on front doors but shows every flaw beneath it. Samples in the room settle most decisions, and our note on matt, eggshell or satin sets out the trade-offs.
Questions homeowners ask
Do we need to move out while you paint?
Usually not. We phase the work so that bedrooms, a bathroom and the kitchen stay usable wherever possible, and we clear up at the end of every day. Where oil-based paints are specified, we schedule them for rooms you can do without for a day or two.
How long will each room take?
Preparation decides most of it. A room in sound condition may need only a few days; one with cracked plaster, failing paintwork or new plaster to seal can take considerably longer. The survey gives a realistic estimate room by room, and drying and recoat times follow the manufacturer’s data sheet rather than our convenience.
Is there lead in our old paintwork?
In older houses it is sensible to assume that earlier layers may contain lead until a test shows otherwise. We never dry-sand or burn off old paint, and we follow HSE guidance on preparation, dust control and clean-up. Our period properties page explains more.
Within painting
- Interior painting Interior painting of ceilings, walls and woodwork, carried out in the right sequence and prepared for the surfaces your house actually has.
- Exterior painting Exterior painting of stucco, render, masonry, timber joinery and railings, planned around the weather and the needs of each surface.
- Walls and ceilings Painting walls and ceilings in period and contemporary homes: filling cracks, lining where it helps, and careful work around cornices and ceiling roses.
- Woodwork Painting skirtings, architraves, dado and picture rails with thorough preparation, sanding between coats, and trim paints chosen for how they will age.
- Doors Painting internal and front doors: ironmongery removed, panels painted in the proper order, edges finished, and time allowed for the paint to harden.
- Windows Painting sash and casement windows so they look right and still open: sash boxes, beads and cords handled properly, putty sound, and nothing painted shut.
- Period properties Painting Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian houses with coatings that suit lime plaster and old masonry, careful handling of old paint, and respect for listed fabric.
Discussing painting?
Tell us about the property and the rooms involved. We will visit, look closely at the surfaces and prepare a written quotation.
Request a quotation